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Read Whistling Dixie: Dispatches from the South by John Shelton Reed, a prominent Southern scholar


Eating the Southern Way
(By Stacy Jones, February 4, 2006)
     Some people just don’t get it.
     Today I received an e-mail from PETA, the acronym for the group otherwise known as People for the Ethical Treatment of Animals. The message said, “Your desire to make the world better for animals was probably what brought you to our site a few weeks ago. I'd like to personally invite you to help us put that same desire to work for animals in need by becoming a member of PETA, an organization that makes change happen!”
     Now I have nothing against animals. In fact, I probably harbor one of the softest spots for animals of anyone I know. I’ve had my share of pets over the years, including cats, dogs, goldfish, and, yes, even a pet rooster. I couldn’t hit an animal while driving on the highway—including possums—without experiencing some grief.
     And I have nothing against an organization that works to make the world a better place for animals. Admittedly, after seeing news stories of animals forced to live in squalid conditions by uncaring owners, I, too, want to see such people brought to justice and made to realize the errors of their ways.
     But I must admit I don’t always trust those who are a little too zealous about any one cause. PETA is more than a little too zealous. I admire the group for their audacity in some campaigns, such as having celebrities pose nude to protest fur.
     I question the sanity of others, though, including one ad that compares the literal, historical slavery of African Americans to the figurative “slavery” of animals that are raised for food or clothing or on exhibit in zoos. In another ad, the organization compares the mistreatment of chickens to the gross cruelties enacted on Jews in Auschwitz during the Holocaust. I was appalled at such incongruous comparisons regarding African American and Jewish people. What a mockery.
     After I received the e-mail from PETA encouraging me to join, I tried to recall exactly why I had been visiting their website. Then I remembered. A week or so ago, I had read a news story on the site about actress Pamela Anderson protesting the presence of a bust of Colonel Harland Sanders at the Kentucky State Capitol.
     Many people in the South know of Pamela Anderson through television. What comes to mind might be her very open relationship at one time with rocker Tommy Lee. Or her stint on TV show Baywatch. Or her inability to be inarticulate on almost any subject. Or her ads with PETA where she wore Ugg boots made of sheep fur while protesting cruelty to animals. PETA’s response to that slight oversight? “Pam is doing the best she can.”
     On the other hand, everybody in the South knows of Colonel Harland Sanders. With at least one KFC, formerly Kentucky Fried Chicken, in every small and large Southern town, Colonel Sanders has become a Southern icon. Photos and illustrations of the Colonel, in his trademark white suit, adorn the walls of those KFCs. Moreover, the Colonel has become a world entity. Kentucky Fried Chicken is now available in over 80 countries and territories around the world.
     The Colonel is the kind of success story we like to hear, especially in the South. He began with humble origins in Corbin, Kentucky. He developed his special recipe chicken with its secret blend of 11 herbs and spices and served it to weary travelers at his Sanders Family Restaurant. The “finger lickin’ good” recipe was an immediate hit. In recognition of his efforts to contribute to Kentucky cuisine, the governor made him a Kentucky Colonel, an honorary title, in 1935.
     In the early 1950s, a new interstate around town threatened the Colonel’s business. He auctioned his assets and began living off of a monthly $105 Social Security check. In 1952, he used this meager check to begin franchising his business. He traveled across the country by car and entered into handshake agreements that involved the payment of one nickel to him for each chicken sold. In 1964, he sold his interest in the company for $2 million to a group of investors but remained a spokesman for the company until his death in 1980. The company changed ownership a few more times and eventually ended up under the umbrella of PepsiCo, owners of Pepsi Cola, Taco Bell, and Pizza Hut—where it resides today.
     PETA claims that suppliers of chicken for PepsiCo raise the animals under torturous conditions. KFC, however, counters by saying that they constantly monitor suppliers to make sure they are employing humane handling procedures for the animals.
     What PETA doesn’t get is, first of all, is the longstanding tradition of eating meat in the South. Well-to-do Californians, for instance, who have grown up eating little more than green leafy vegetables may know nothing of an ancestry who had to eat what they could either raise or sometimes find, including chickens, pigs, and sometimes less desirable animals such as rabbits, possums, or squirrel.
     Tradition, of course, doesn’t make something correct. And most of us are better off economically now in the South than previous generations. Very few raise or hunt our own food of necessity. However, it’s part of our history. We cannot instantly erase years of such history, something PETA fails to realize.
     Our people—who also grew gardens full of vegetables to complement their meals—slaughtered meat by hand. And let me say this: if you’ve ever heard the description of someone killing a pig for cooking, it’s not pleasant. These same people perfected ways of cooking meat, including, yes, the famous chicken of Kentucky Fried fame, as well as our well-known Southern style pork barbecue. I think most of us would prefer to eliminate cruelty to animals, but to give up all of those things wholesale would be a great loss to our past in the South.
     No surprise to anyone reared below the Mason-Dixon line, Kentucky refused to remove the bust of Colonel Harland Sanders from the Capitol, saying, “We have no plans to remove or change anything about the display. Colonel Sanders remains a Kentucky icon. His success story has been an inspiration to many. The industry he began has employed hundreds of thousands of workers over the years. His business and his legacy have been good for Kentucky."
     What happened next, in my opinion? PETA and spokesperson Pamela Anderson had to turn tail and eat crow, not the most appetizing of poultry dishes.
     (Stacy Jones, who can hold her own when it comes to eating fried chicken, is a Master of Fine Arts student in fiction writing at The University of Memphis. She is a native of Guys, Tenn., and her columns, which appear on Saturdays, are archived at Southern-Drawl.com.)

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